We've been back in Paris for almost 2 weeks now - in the 14th arrondissement. I now have access to my computer and I've gone back to the previous blogs I posted during our trip around France and inserted pictures. So please go back and take a look.
I just had an extended messaging session with our Airbnb host about Haussmann architecture and the wonders of the 17th arrondissement. I selected his apartment because it reminded me of our first place in the 17th - on a smaller footprint. But we have enjoyed all the places we have lived in Paris and the areas we've been privileged to explore. A walk in Paris does indeed drive home the point of life.
It took us a bit to get settled in after our sojourn around the country. But we've actually done a lot since we got back. I have been in sore need of a haircut, and Chris was working, so I set off to the area of the Bastille to find a place that seemed to have good reviews. Although Chris and I had been in the Bastille Metro station before, I hadn't seen that the particular platform that I got off on actually spanned the Seine - or perhaps it was a canal. In any case, it was very cool! The walls of the station had picture tiles depicting French workers, in homage to the Revolution.
The salon I was looking for was closed. Last week during the lull between the Olympics and the Paralympics it seemed like everything was closed. But no worries; I had time to fill, so I started wandering. I came upon the Place des Voges. Chris and I had been directed to the park a month ago or so. We saw the park then, but we didn't notice the buildings and corridors - almost like cloisters - around the park. I walked around the square and the buildings were populated by high-end art galleries and restaurants. The Maison (House) of Victor Hugo is in one corner of the Place des Voges, too. Here's a picture of the entryway into the Place des Voges.
The next day, I took Chris to the Maison de Victor Hugo. He wasn't terribly moved by it. Considering that Hugo was one of the major French writers and thinkers, I thought there were a lot of visuals with little in the way of his writing and poetry - a few snippets from poems on the walls. I most enjoyed the recreated rooms of his apartment, especially the Asian-influenced décor.
The Place des Voges in deep in the heart of the area of Paris called The Marais (for "marsh," upon which it was built). We spent several days going to places in The Marais. One such place was Saint Paul's Church. As with many churches during the Revolution, it was vandalized - with graffiti. There's so much graffiti in France today that I just thought "Wow; in a church." But then I realized that this was a voice from the past. Chills.
"Republic of France or Death"
At this point in our journey, I've about had enough of churches, so other than this graffiti, I felt pretty neutral about yet another church. But I started to look around and noticed the stations of the Cross, which were more modern, gilded, and really beautiful.
Last Thursday we went to the Musée Carnavalet, the museum of the history of Paris. For anyone who has an interest in Paris itself, this is a must-see before you go anywhere else. The exhibit started with a charming presentation of old shop signs - the signs advertising cafés and other providers of services. These types of signs are still central features of Paris street life. Here are a couple I particularly liked:
"Bad Boys Street"
Some shop signs build on humor. This is a sign for a cheese shop: 3 rats. What do rats eat? Cheese!
The rest of the museum is organized by era, from prehistoric through the Revolution and up to present day. We decided against the prehistoric and got through the origins of Paris and events leading up to the Revolution. I'd be interested in going back to do the rest of the Revolution and WWII.
On Friday, I went to the Rue Denoyez, a street lined with graffiti. I think the French recognize graffiti as a legitimate art form more than Americans do. We have trouble getting beyond what we see as damage to other people's property. In reviews that I read before going, some people considered the street "small and dirty" and not worth the time. I did not find it so. It was a short street, but it had neat cobblestones, no trash, and was almost charming. Most of the graffiti was artistic and fun with political and social commentary - whether one agreed with it or not.
This was one of the first graffiti works that I saw. I thought it was lovely.
I'm not sure what kind of statement a panda with a gun is, but I found it interesting.
Americans of a certain age will understand an image of a cop as pig.
Not making a statement here. Just presenting!
As I noted, we've been here almost 2 weeks. There is more to report, but I think I'll stop here.
I hope you all are well. We are doing well, also, but all too aware that our trip is quickly coming to an end. I'll be in touch in another week with more news.
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